Jordan: Kingdoms of the Desert

From the remains of the Stone Age to the magnificence of the Ottomans, Jordan has long felt the tide of history. Today, the country is home to a spectacular array of archaeological sites offering tantalizing glimpses into some of the world’s most iconic cultures: Assyria, Babylon, Persia, Greece, Rome, Parthia, the Byzantines, the Umayyads, Abbasids, Crusaders and Ayyubids have all left their mark.

We begin our journey on the seven hills of Amman with the biblical city of Madaba, the centre of a Byzantine mosaic school in the sixth century, and home to the famous floor map of the Holy Land and Jerusalem. Meanwhile, at nearby Mount Nebo, site of the mosaic museum and Sanctuary of Moses, we will enjoy unrivalled panoramas of the Dead Sea and the River Jordan.

The superb Hellenistic and Roman city of Jerash was created at the end of the fourth century BC by the Greco-Roman confederation as one of the 10 cities of the Decapolis. Built to integrate Hellenic and local populations, it is one of Rome’s grandest imperial outposts and boasts a colonnaded oval forum, magnificent theatres, colonnaded Roman streets and the beautifully restored Precinct of Artemis. 

Petra, the imposing stronghold carved out of rock by the Nabataeans more than 2000 years ago, is a true marvel. On our visit to the rose-red city we will journey through the towering Siq ravine and admire the stunning vista of soaring temples, dramatic halls and lofty altars hand-chiselled into the sandstone cliffs. Highlights include Al Khazneh (the Treasury), the rock-cut theatre, the Great Temple and the Nabataean temple of Qasr al-Bint. Petra’s northern suburb of Siq al-Barid, often referred to as ‘Little Petra’, holds a further gathering of well-preserved Nabataean tombs, and nearby the prehistoric site of Al-Beidha holds great significance for understanding the beginnings of the Neolithic period in Western Asia and the birth of European civilization.

Our journey south takes us into the Valley of the Moon (Wadi Rum Protected Area), a remarkable example of desert scenery, and part of the Hizma basin of western Arabia. Here we will take a ‘safari’ through the magnificent desert landscapes to see the wealth of prehistoric rock engravings and the first century Nabataean temple in Wadi Rum village.

Dotted throughout the steppe-like terrain of eastern Jordan is a string of fortified palaces, towers and caravanserais. These desert castles, eloquent examples of early Islamic art and architecture, include Qasr Amra, its interior adorned with lively frescoes and colourful mosaics, and the oasis and fortress of Azraq, where Lawrence of Arabia quartered during the Great Arab Revolt. We will also visit Kerak, home to the famous Crusader castle used as a stronghold by Reynald de Châtillon.

Our visits will be supplemented by informative talks from Tour Director Andrew Wilson throughout.

In Amman we will stay at the Amman Marriott Hotel, before transferring to the Mövenpick Resort at the very entrance to Petra. On the shores of the Dead Sea we will stay at the Dead Sea Jordan Valley Marriott Resort & Spa.

Tour Director Andrew Wilson, BA, BD, FSAScot, studied archaeology then theology before working overseas as an archaeologist. He has led many tours for ACE in the Greco-Roman world, and also several in Britain, with a particular emphasis on the archaeology of his native Scotland. Andrew is a member of the Society for Libyan Studies and a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland and the Society for Promotion of Byzantine Studies. He has led several ACE tours to Jordan and is thrilled to be returning with a group in 2021.

OUR VISIT TO PETRA

We have the opportunity to spend a whole day in Petra, with an optional return the following day, to maximise our visit to this splendid site.

Andrew Wilson explains:

"On the morning of the first day we will take a 15 minute walk to the entrance to the Siq, down a gentle gradient on a reasonable path (horses are available). This is followed by a stroll through incredible surroundings, down through the Siq to the Treasury on a beaten earth path.

We then make our way through the heart of the ancient city, with some steep ascents and descents over rough ground and rocky, broken paths, finishing at our lunch stop. In the afternoon there is an optional climb to the monastery, which can take an hour uphill over some tricky and slippery steps in places. The return journey on foot to the hotel from the monastery can take up to two hours, or from the lunch stop 90 minutes.

On our second day in Petra we offer an optional ascent to the High Place of Sacrifice, starting from a point halfway between the Treasury and the lunch stop from the previous day. This climb is shorter but steeper than the monastery and takes over 30 minutes, including a precipitous final stage."